and then i stopped blogging because i suck.

Haven't been writing, as the 'vacation phase' is over-- and the 'getting shit together phase' has been in full gear. In short? I love it here. Love it love it love it love it. This is exactly where I needed to be, and at exactly the right moment.
In the first week, I've managed to sort out: new banking account. new cell phone. new home. new job. and, while it's taking a bit more time *naturally then the rest of it--- new friends are in the making.

Today I went to the park with a new pal from New Zealand--- then house hunted with my favorite new German guy: Thomas. If things tomorrow morning work out, we'll be living together, with another gal from Sydney--- merely 5 minutes from the beach, and 10 minutes from the 'city center'--- where I now sling cocktails for Aussies.

Oh my god, i love it here. More to come... someday maybe?

and then i was straight chillin'

Color me ready and waiting folks.

I'm officially watching the clock. Sitting here at (go on, judge) Starbucks-- where the coffee still sucks, but the internet is free... Tonight? Probably some celebratory beers, followed by some necessary packing... then tomorrow: a flight to Tokyo, then to Gold Coast, then finally to Melbourne.

In short, I'll be living at various airports for the next two days--- The good news: after innumerable years purchasing spontaneous flights to the other side of the globe- I've finally developed my

'How-to-not-feel-totally-disgusting-after-37+-hours-showerless-in-airplanes' survival pack.
Are you ready? The secrets I'm about to reveal may in fact blow your fucking mind.

* tooth brush and paste. total life saver.
* lotion--- skin gets soooo dry with all that circulated plane air
* an extra pair of clean underwear. incredible.
*2 or 3 half finished novels-- assuming you can't find a Vogue in english anywhere
* that just-dusted-off journal. you know, for any last minute fits of introspection.
*and finally-- for that long-awaited arrival at 'THE' destination? some mascara and lip gloss. duh.

who says I'm not the nest building nurturing type! go fuck yourself!

sweaty and wasted. and apparently with a knife?

Fun times with ipod lights and exposed flash settings....

Some last minute pics--- good times with good people. I'll save the 'Japan In Conclusion' blog for one of my many layovers tomorrow... I'll have a lot of time to 'process, filter and regurgitate.'

and then i spent my birthday in my suit...

Took off for Beppu.
Two hours southeast of Fukouka---- renown for its onsen. The entire town essentially sits on hot springs. I had hours and hours there, and really only made it to two out of the dozen onsen spread about.

I’d decided beforehand that it was due time to spend a birthday solo, and naked--- and now having done so, I recommend it to everyone. 

Oh, and if possible, have some birthday ramen. 

Understandably so, cameras aren’t allowed in public bathhouses, so I have no photographic evidence of this day--- only back muscles free of knots, and a mind free of stress.

 Ah, and after close inspection, I believe I located a wrinkle on my forehead.

 26 years old….

Not bad, ol’ gal, not bad at all.

Later that night, I returned to Fukuoka, where friends surprised me at the train station (birthday whiskey tucked under their jackets)—and took me out for diner.

We returned home afterwards, to rooftop drinks, more food--- and this:

A wonderful, homemade chocolate cake--- complete with an ‘E’ across the top. (Thank you Fumi!) 

Australia in ONE week folks. Stay tuned.

and then i nerded out in Nagasaki

Here’s a healthy dose of history for y’all.

Check it out: Nagasaki.

Opened by the Portuguese in 1571. Flourished as a busy trading port/center for Christian missionary activities. In 1641, after the adoption of a national ban on Christianity and the expulsion of the Portuguese, the Dutch trading post and Chinese settlement in Nagasaki became Japan’s only points of contact with the outside world. The monopoly lasted for more than 200 years and created in Nagasaki a unique blend of cultures, and a liberal atmosphere unheard of in other parts of the country.

Then, at 11:02 am on August 9^th, 1945 (3 days after Hiroshima) the USA dropped yet another A-bomb. This time, killing over 75,000 of Nagasaki’s 240,000 population. Over 70% of the bomb’s victims were women, children, and senior citizens. Another 75,000 were injured and it is estimated that that number again have subsequent died as a result of the blast. Anyone out in the open within two km of the epicenter suffered severe burns from the heat of the explosion; even four km away exposed skin was burnt. Everything within a one km radius of the explosion was destroyed, and the resultant fires burnt out almost everything within a four km radius. A third of the city was wiped out.

Let me break it down some more:

Total population of Nagasaki: 240,000

Dead: 73,884

Injured: 74,909

Homeless: 120,820

Damaged houses within 4 km radius: 18,409

Totally destroyed houses within 4 km radius: 11,574 (1/3 of all houses in city)

Despite being ½ the size, Nagasaki’s Atomic Bomb Museum somehow sunk in deeper then Hiroshima’s museum. It felt more personal---- more horribly intimate. Hiroshima had larger collections, larger exhibits, and even more testimonies… but Nagasaki… maybe its exhibits were more powerful in their simplicity? Maybe less was somehow more? I’m not sure. But it was incredible.

Peace Statue (in Peace Park)--- completed in 1955, 10 years after the atomic bombing. It’s by far the ugliest thing I’ve ever seen. Regardless, the raised arm points to the threat of nuclear weapons, and the out-stretched arm symbolizes peace.

Fukusai-ji Temple: a former national treasure--- build by a Chinese Zen priest in 1628. 20 years later, the temple was dedicated to the goddess of Mercy, Kannon, in order to make the temple prosper. The A-bomb completely destroyed the original temple, along with its precious cultural inheritance—thus in 1979, it was rebuilt--- in the shape of a giant turtle, with an 18 meter-high figure of the goddess Kannon on its back. At 11:02 am daily—the exact time of the explosion, a bell tolls from the temple.

26 martyrs memorial:

26 Christians were crucified here in 1957, during Japan’s most brutal crackdown on Christianity. Of those remembered: 6 Spanish friars, and 20 Japanese—the youngest being boys aged 12 and 13.

Glover Garden!

After traveling to Nagasaki from Scotland, Thomas Blake Glover built a house on the hill in Minami-Yamate in 1863. At the time, Nagasaki was vibrant with the energy of people looking toward a new dawn for Japan. Here were the merchants from across the seas, pursuing dreams of fortune; the revolutionaries seeking an end to the Shogunate; and the youth of Japan eager to study the West. Today---- over a century later, the memories of Glover’s life here with his wife and children remain, untouched, along with the homes of the merchants who lived in Nagasaki. In short, you can explore a bunch of European style mansions from the city’s pioneering Meiji period. Factor in the fact that they’re all situated on a hillside overlooking the sea, and surrounded by incredible gardens/goldfish ponds—and it becomes a super cool way to waste the afternoon.

and then I made it to Kyushu

Fukuoka:

My first stop on Kyushu—the third largest and southernmost of the four major islands of Japan. I’ve rejoined my buddy from Tokyo, and am using his place as a launching pad of sorts--- I’ve only got a few days left on my rail pass (aka: FREE FAST travel to ANYWHERE), so I’ve been waking up around 8 every morning, running to the nearest train—and exploring nonstop until nightfall, when I return back to Fukouka, and crack into some scotch with my pal.

Wait: I need to gush for a second.

Japan’s train system: UN-fucking-believable. I thought Europe’s rails were impressive. Compared to Japan, they’re ancient bumbling excuses for cross-country travel. Japanese trains are faster then the speed of sound. Well, almost. It takes 5 hours to get from Fukuoka to Tokyo. FIVE HOURS. Tokyo to Kyoto? 2 ½ hours. Kyoto to Osaka? .06 minutes. The trains run basically every 4 minutes, and are NEVER late. I can judge where I’m at in my travels based on what time it is. If my train is set for Kyoto at 14:43, and my watch says 14:41? We’re not there yet. Should you ever decide to visit Japan, get a JR Pass before hand—as it is absolutely incredible. I simply show up at the station, find where the next train departs (max, I’ve had to wait 10 minutes), flash my JR Pass on the way in, bypass the crowds, climb aboard, find a seat, store my backpack, and turn on some Sabbath. Done and done.

That said, my current location is pretty convenient. I spent a full day exploring Fukuoka--- a super chill city. It’s warm here, with an almost Mediterranean feel. While there are no exceptional ‘tourist attractions,’ this is a city you simply wander around to soak up ‘the vibe.’ Fukuoka has about a billion restaurants, and 8 billions bars--- thus is has a pretty wild nightlife. Even my guidebook from 1998 states: ‘The people of Fukuoka like to drink, and know how to have a good time.’ Looks like I found my people.

This building is built like a mountain! Sorta cool right? Maybe?

City scene.

Motsunabe. Basically: miso soup and pig bone, simmered with veggies and intestine. Like, oh my god like wow.

and then we saw some really bizarre stuff....

Omishima Island:

Me and J: our mutual love for ice cream

Hilly little guy, situated within the inland sea--- Houses the mountain god’s Oyamatsumijinja Shrine—which once commanded quite a bit of respect from pirates. An armor collection was built up in the shrine’s treasure house; including more then half the armor in Japan; 80% of the armor and helmets designated as National Treasures are held here. Basically? A whole bunch of samurai swords!

The one pic I could score before getting yelled at by an incredibly intense security dude.

In the building next door lies a boat used by Emperor Hirohito during his marine science ‘investigations,’ and the guys sick collection of pickled/calcified/jarred sea creatures.

Again, the sole picture I snapped before getting yelled at by yet another--- even more intense security dude. Jesus people! They're just swords and crabs! Take it easy!

and then a plan hatched...

Taiza. Population 112.

Lazy day by the sea. Some good ol’ home cookin, followed with some good ol’ lighthouse explorin’.

The complete polar opposite of Tokyo. Hatching grounds for spontaneous road-trip 2010. 5 people + 5 backpacks in the worlds tiniest car.  Aka super fun.

First stop? Kobe. One of Japan’s more attractive cities, as it’s perched on hills overlooking the sea. A total port town, there are lingering traces of both Chinese and European influences--- in both the food and architecture. We explored Kobe slowly and carefully—constantly lost, yet unworried about our whereabouts…

Chinatown by day, although we eventually wound up back here later for some cheap dinner. So cheap, that it came as no surprise when--- sans meal, a giant rat ran through the plastic coated dining room. Oops.

I LOVE magicians. There. I said it.

Ah yes, and later that night—to celebrate Claudine’s departure for Thailand, KARAOKE. I am proud to announce that thanks to this night—I will now be pursuing a future as ‘Pop Star,’ as I have the best voice ever, and some sweet sweet moves to accompany it. Karoke in Japan goes as such: pay $15-$20 for 2 or 3 hours of ALL you can drink, ALL you can sing rock-out time. You and your pals get your own room, which---- after 4 gin and tonics begins to resemble your own FUCKING STAGE. I would post a video of my singing…but I’m too good. I don’t want to run into copyright issues once my career takes off.

You’re going down Miley Cyrus. 

Bitch.

and then i woke up on the side of a cliff

So this is Neoshima.

A tiny little off the charts island—about an hour offshore from Takamatsu… just recently beginning to appear on tourist maps for its art/galleries. A spontaneous cross-Japan road trip has resulted in this: our 5 sleeper tent—(packed with 6) perched on a cliffside above totally deserted beaches. As I write this, it’s about 7 am. The already blazing sun has started to bake all of our hungover selves— so? I decided to just get up, bathe myself in SPF 70, and wait for the others to rise. That said, I may be dicking about on my own for awhile, as I vaguely remember falling asleep to the other’s excited realizations that there was more bagged wine (?) in the car trunk.

Yesterday consisted of some serious ‘summer-time-beach-time.’ It was the first chance I had to actually swim in the sea--- thus, the first reason I had to shave my legs.

The latter never happened—but I did manage to successfully dodge jellyfish, choke on numerous salt-water waves, and climb random rock walls. In short—it was a great, laaaazy day.

That said, the fun really started post-sunset.

Take this incredible camp spot:

Factor in a few beers, the exchange of innumerable travel stories amongst new friends, and---- believe it or not, mini yoga lessons—mix in MUSIC, and you’ve got yourself a full on party. Then? Shake in some local Japanese island-dwellers, initially just driving by— but inevitably drawn into the dancing circle—and you get this:

This is a terrible picture- but it simply must be posted. The older man you see shaking it alongside me, is the father of the other gals--- who not only invite us to their dance recital the following day, but insist we stop by their father’s local business: a cake shop.

Oh my God awesome.

But it gets better. Naturally, after 3 hours of dancing (on rocks mind you, today my feet are shredded), one gets a) thirsty and b) sweaty… Zoom in on our grand plan: swing by beer vending machine,

get naked, and go swimming again.

Now, I wish I had pictures of the rest of this night. Not to showcase the ass-cheeks of my nudie pals--- but because it will forever simmer in the back of my mind as one of the most beautiful, incredible nights I’ve experienced to date….

Let me rack my brain for the words to paint this scene….

So.

As jellyfish are harder to see in the dark, we snuck into some private, closed off bay portion of the sea. Hoped a couple fences, climbed down a hillside--- threw off our sweat-drenched clothes—and dove into what was probably 70-degree water… The moon was a slight degree less then ‘full’—so everything was cast in this unbelievable silver-white light…..the calm water of the bay, the surrounding mountains, the rock wall that separated our cove from the choppy waves of the sea. Absolutely breathtaking. Even more incredible? Bioluminescent plankton! I’ve never seen anything like it: plankton that glow in the dark--- like mini lightening bugs of the sea. Under the moonlight, they light up—thus swimming in black water suddenly resembled bathing in a pool of silver glitter. Un-fucking-real.

My friend Eve and I ditched the others, swam across the bay and climbed over the rock wall that faced the ocean. The wind that was coming off the water felt like standing in front of a giant hairdryer--- we were dry mere seconds after emerging from the bay. The others soon joined us--- and all 6 of us just stood there: assorted hoo-ha’s flapping in the wind---facing the world (or, I suppose, facing China) under the moon, giggling to ourselves like we were all in on a joke that could never be retold.

And yet here I sit, trying to retell it…. And failing miserably.

Once, years ago—I read an otherwise un-noteworthy book with one striking scene. The narrator finds himself riding through a tunnel, from the back of his friend’s truck. Someone (probably a pretty girl, as pretty girls are always good plot propellers) flips on ‘that perfect song’ at ‘that perfect moment’—and his simple commentary on the entire experience goes as such:

            ‘I am epic.’

Cliché? Yup. Cheesy? For sure.

Regardless folks, on that particular night, from that particular rock ledge---- tits-up under the moonlight,

            I was epic.

The next morning we managed to eat noodles, tour the island’s ‘Art House Project,’ and catch up with the prior night’s dance participants. I left my camera in the car for this portion of our day---- but we managed (with the help of the sweetest bike cop, who literally escorted us there) to find our buddy’s cake shop. He was absolutely floored at our appearance. Invited us into his tiny little hole-in-the-wall cookie making factory—and after feeding us probably 46 cookies each (Yes. Oh God. Yes.) showed us how he operated his giant cast-iron stove.

My thought process during the following hour and a half:

Oh my god these cookies are amazing.

Oh my god why didn’t I bring my camera.

Oh sweet Christ, so good.

Stupid stupid girl! You could be filming this!

Mmmmm, so delicious.

You moron!

Yes, yes, yes, more cookies.

Thus, I have no photos for you, and I’m 3 pounds heavier. Wonderful.

Except for this one. Here are the bags of cookies we bought upon our departure.

Our host was incredibly proud of his home, his family, and his history. Despite having no common language, we had no problems understanding eachother. With books of photos, he told me his story: he used to work in a huge metal factory in Hiroshima. After years of backbreaking monotony, he decided to move to the island, and do what he loved: make cookies. Perhaps to pay homage to his past, one of his cookie designs actually mirrors the shape of the metal molding he constantly sat over in the factory.

Post cookies, we found the girls practicing for their dance show,

and followed them to their friend’s larger dress rehearsal

The island’s ‘Art House Project’ that I mentioned earlier is worth describing a bit more, as it’s essentially Naoshima’s claim to fame.

Located in the district of Honmura, the project involves the restoration of old houses, and the transformation of these houses into works of art. The spaces are shaped in conjunction to architecture, previous inhabitants, and Japanese traditions and aesthetics. Ten dollars gets you in to almost all of the spaces--- some are incredibly simple: a raked rock garden covered in plastic flowers, and some are mind blowing in their complexity: a giant loft space, painted nearly every shade of blue—on one wall the side of a rusty sailboat, and in the adjacent room, a 2-story plaster mold of the statue of liberty. 

And finally? Here is a series of photos on the ferry back from Naoshima. The perfect end to a perfect adventure--- during the entire 40 minutes wherein this view unfolded, I managed to solve all the world’s problems, and perhaps even a few of my own.

More to come.  

and then I learned about the A-bomb.

Hiroshima.

Our stop here was basically for one reason: to check out the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. As it’s situated directly within the Peace Park--- we also stopped by the A-bomb Dome, and the National Peace Memorial hall for A-bomb Victims. Oh, and we ate Okonomiyaki…. yet suddenly, commentary on my tummy’s pleasure-romping seems arrogant, unnecessary, and wholly inappropriate after absorbing (or at least attempting to absorb) the idea of a nuclear bomb destroying over 120,000 people.. 

Let the pictures tell the stories. 

Hiroshima before the bomb.

                                                           Hiroshima after the bomb.

 It's hard to see-- but the tiny structure still standing on the right side of the river is the A-dome. Here it stands today. 

A-bomb dome.

Those who weren't immediately killed were left with severe burns, and skin that melted off.

There was also an exhibit that focused solely on mothers and their children. After the bomb, everyone tried to find their way back home-- to their families. The museum presented horrible testimonies. Family members that only recognized each other by their voices, as their skin had melted off. Mothers who watched their children burn to death under trapped buildings. Children who made it home, only to find the charred skeleton of their parents. Horrible horrible horrible.

The remains of one mother's son.

 I think I'm done writing about this for a while...

and then I partied with monkeys. No, for real.

Miyajima: One of the three most scenic spots of Japan.

A mere day trip from Hiroshima--- yet another world entirely. Monkeys. Deer that eat out of your hand. Tropical vegetation, and an incredible, unyielding heat. The coolest mountain hike I’ve done in a while. Ancient history amidst incredible natural scenery—all shaken with a hint of ‘Welcome Tourists.’ Lucky for us, apparently most tourists don’t like climbing mountains. 

Except for one nonchalant deer, and 2 monkeys—we had the trail—and thus, the entire day--- all to ourselves.

Mount Misen--- Rising about 535 meters above sea level, the mountain has been considered sacred since ancient times. Near the summit are temples relating to Kobo Daishi, a great Buddhist priest.

The Otorii Gate of Itsukushima Shrine---Dedicated to the three Munakata goddesses (goddesses of the sea, fortune and accomplishment). First built in 593, it was remodeled in 1168 by Taira-no-Kiyomori. Both the shrine and gate are built over the sea, thus high tide is the best time to see both. Apparently, the Otorii gate is the number one photographed ‘sight’ in Japan. And I can totally see why.