Thursday, March 17, 2011

and then tasmania...


The 'non-plan': Hobart, up the east coastline... maybe over to the middle-ish... then, depending on our daylight situation (aka: the severity of our sobriety), perhaps back down again...

Packed the car with tents, blankets, bottles of port, and innumerable peanutbutter /banana sandwiches. Headed northeast. Found the ocean. (Go us!)

Freycinet National Park

Bay of Fires
Stopped at Iron House Brewery  along the way, for some much needed ciders in the sun. Camped in the sand... killed 4 sandbos, and 2 bottles. Nice.
Our camp spot. Money.

The next morning: a beach walk (shell-less, unfortunately), followed by apricots at the farmer's market in St. Helens... Gathered an 'itenary' of sorts from the lovely gentleman at St. Helen's info center... headed off to Pyengana for some waterfall walks, cheesery visits, and... of course... a mini (ladylike, of course) pub crawl.







Pyengana... 


St. Colombo Falls (90 m)

Full of cheese and beer, and lightly dazzled by waterfall splendor:  back in the car. Head to Blue Tier Region for the craziest, most beautiful afternoon of hiking I've ever experienced. Think Teletubbies meets Princess Bride. Bright green moss on everything, neon yellow flowers dotting the mountain. Unworldly cactus-like trees, sprouting from a spoungy, squishy hillside. We literally bounced up the hillside giggling. Felt more like a movie set than an actual ecosystem... even stumbled upon a crystal clear pond, surrounded by fluorescent flowers, and filled to the brim with giant tadpoles. Unreal.
Wildest trek ever. Blue Tier National Park.

the magical pond of eternal youth.
Head over to Scottsdale. No pics-- as we set up camp outside town, and spent the night bar hoping (from their two operating pubs), and eating steak. Oh, and getting hit on by incredibly scary men. Kill another bottle of port. And find showers. Things keep getting better and better.

Next day? Drive to Launceston. Spend 2 hours hiking around the town's 'gorge'-- discuss eating disorders and Paul Simon, amongst other things... Head north again, stop for more ciders--- wind up camping at  greens beach ... aka 'Wombat Town.'
our setup in wombat town
Spend the afternoon drinking ciders under a tree-- bond with our fellow campers, including George. A 68 year old retiree, who drives a mean golf cart, and was smashed after sharing one of our ciders. After learning of our excitement to see wombats for the first time, George reappeared hours later to literally escort us (in his cart, of course) right to the first wombat appearance. As it's our last night out-- we wombat hunt (aka sit and squeal and point at wombats) while polishing off the last of our port. 
wombats everywhere.
no but seriously. everywhere.
sunsets over wombat town...

More to come... xox

Thursday, February 3, 2011

and then Tasmania changed everything.


Breakfast is on the way, thus--- I’ll tell you all a story.

Once upon a time, there was a very very smart man. Originally from Australia—he discovered a knack for professional gambling--- to be more specific, a knack for card counting. He traveled the country, the world really, making millions--- before the IRS or CIA or some crew you don’t want to fuck with caught up with him, and (after a bit of time in the slammer), banned this very very smart man from all casinos for the rest of time….

This man, still being very very smart, apparently decided to simply train people to count cards for him. Thus, this man still rakes in millions, probably billions, and stays completely in the clear. Now situated in Hobart, Tasmania, this very very smart man does things like open wineries, grow vineyards, and open billion dollar art galleries.

The past two days, I’ve been scampering about this ‘property’—situated right within north Hobart’s bay… friends from Melbourne- who have recently relocated to Taz have invited me into their lovely home, and insisted on my participation within this very very smart, very very rich man’s opening gala.

To be more clear, this has been a 10+ year project in the making. Visitors stroll through the vineyard, up to the hilltop—where several grassy fields unfold onto large stages (Stages that hosted everyone from Health to Wire)… there are bars everywhere, and lovely little food stations offering caviar and oysters, burritos and kabobs…

As it was their opening weekend--- all of this was FREE. Actually—the art gallery (the smart, rich man’s personal collection) will always be free. And it’s absolutely incredible. 

Having traveled quite a few places, I’ve nerded out in quite a few museums. And I’ve never seen anything this…. intensive. MONA. Ie: The Museum of Old and New Art. Everything from crusty mummies, to giant modernist paintings of hermaphrodites. I spent 4 hours plotting through its corridors, and after trying to articulate it’s most mind-blowing, shockingly offensive exhibits among friends, discovered I missed over a third of its content. I’ll have to head back later this week…

The whole museum feels like a system of catacombs… And there are NO signs on any of the pieces/installations. Upon entering, you’re handed an I-touch.  Yup. You read that correctly. An I-touch. As the museum entrance is on the top floor, you descend into the first floor, and hit your I-touch to ‘begin.’ It automatically senses where in the museum you are—and constantly showcases exhibits nearby. Even more incredible is the selection of information you--- as a viewer—are offered. Not only are you propelled into the general, ‘historical’ information regarding each piece, you’re showered with audio clips, pop-cultural context, even smart-ass ‘blurbs’ intended to jump-start your (probably un-processable) reactions. 

Let me give an example.
I walk up to a screen-print/photograph of a dog fucking a man. Again, yes, you read this right. Right there, in front of your face--- a dog (clearly in the throws of ecstasy) is fucking a grown man (equally thrilled). There are old people, and children, and solemn looking tourists everywhere. Yet, there you stand. Observing this ‘scene’ or ‘exhibit’ or whatever the hell it is. You advert your gaze to the I-touch. You find out the French artist developed this piece mere years ago. Fair enough.

But then? You click deeper. You listen to an audio interview wherein the artist (the crazy fuck!) describes how we’re all just animals--- and that sex between a man and dog is no different than a man petting a cat. The interviewer, clearly shocked (aren’t we all? No? maybe he has a point?) claims otherwise--- as ‘animals can’t give consent to sex’. Good point, you think to yourself, scooting closer and closer to this photograph. Becoming more and more aware of your discomfort. But why? Where is this urge to vomit, or run, or lean in, and listen harder—where is it all coming from? You turn up your I-touch. The artist states that animals DO consent to sex. In the same way humans do. By giving off signals. Thus, the dog fucking this man is no different then a man stroking a cat—providing it with pleasure--- indulging in its purring. Shockingly gross. Fucking disgusting. Offensive.

You click on another link provided. Here is what you’re presented with:
DOG BITES MAN. NOT NEWS.
MAN BITES DOG. NEWS.
MAN FUCKS DOG. NOT NEWS.
DOG FUCKS MAN. NEWS.
DISCUSS.

Another example? Sure, why not.
An exhibit titled ‘150 Cunts.’ The title itself commands a reaction. Suddenly, you’re walking along 150 (sculpted from live models) plaster vaginas--- mounted along a the wall of a hallway. All shapes, all sizes… ‘hand built’ from women ages 17 to 75. Hairy and bald. Chubby and thin. Flabby and tight… an endless display of vaginas. The I-touch provides several links/’food for thought’. A conversation with the artist (male) and an interested spectator (female) covers topics surrounding sexism and feminism. ‘He’ claims all men are pigs. That society is bombarded with dicks constantly— that the mere fact of balls/cock being socially acceptable stems from a severe fear of ‘The vag.’ Interestingly enough, the female listener defends men. She claims he is wrong. That sexism is on the outs. That women have come ‘so far’ and that ‘things are different.’ She’s outraged by such a blatant, vulgar display of labia--- how dare he! Regardless of whose ‘right’ or ‘wrong’-- his closing statement resonates. He claims that all of his 150 models—regardless of their age, sexual orientation, and cultural background volunteered their vaginas—themselves for him, in order to ‘be set free.’

My thought process… free from what? Is he right? How is it that I--- being a western, privileged, Caucasian woman in an advanced ‘progressive’ society--- am uncomfortable with the question of ‘when was the last time I saw/showed a vagina in broad daylight?’ Are people just afraid of Cunt? And why? Where did this assumption come from that dicks are attractive? ‘Vagina’ is cloaked in so much shame it seems… A woman’s sex or sexuality is constantly the white elephant in the middle of the room--- a fragile subject that can only be danced around, yet never directly addressed.

This exhibit—this very very smart man’s art collection attacks such topics.

Death and sex. Fucking and dying.

Two of the most critical elements to ‘being human’—yet two of the best dodged, fully avoided topics within our daily existence. MONA confronts both head on.

Other exhibits?
The gory mold of a suicide bomber, head and shoulders intact, but intestines slopped about the ground--- all made from chocolate.
A black virgin mary, covered in sex toy images.
Films of women devouring fruit, combating time, and inevitably becoming ‘the forest.’

MONA, in its entirety is an experience.

Within its walls, while swimming along its innards, you’re forced to not only slop between uncomfortable organs; you’re dared to admit the hilarity of their necessity. You willingly sit down in the sand, and in doing so—realize you’re contained (and perhaps always have been) within an actual sandbox. ‘The Sandbox.’ Suddenly, you’re uber aware of boundaries, limitations--- despite a lifetime of adhering to them. It’s as if you’re handed a rulebook, that you unknowingly wrote. Social norms, societal expectations--- the invisible matrix our ‘humanness’ swings down from MONA’s rafters and punches you in the throat. And it hurts.

That said, half the fun is watching others around you double over from the blow.

You overhear two women appalled by an exhibit. A goldfish bowl sits on a small table--- encased within it? Two fish, absentmindedly swimming between a large butcher knife,—which, blade down—divides their habitat. 
The women are furious. Grossly offended. That’s not art! That’s FUCKED!

You silently watch them unravel…. Fascinated by their display of displeasure, even more so then the ‘art’ itself. Here, among the most outrageous collection of ‘work’— along displays announcing topics such as ‘cunts’, suicide, rape, religion as war tactic, death, and chaos--- this --- this mildly cryptic DIY aquarium is what causes them to crack (?!?!?)

In another room ‘The Orgasm Machine.’ A large screen portrays a woman with her legs spread. Ok, WOAH. An elderly couple ahead of you follow the ‘instructions.’ In short, when fingers are placed within a small box to the left of the screen, the woman’s legs begin to thrash wildly. You, the viewer--- actually become the participant, and thus, part of the exhibit itself. Again, WOAH. You are the Orgasm. What you put into it, it gives back. Perhaps even more telling then the artist’s show, is the couple’s reaction. They’re beside themselves. Embarrassed. Ashamed. Excited. Aroused even. Fuck, you’re embarrassed for them! How horribly awkward!

And the aftermath of questions: Why IS this uncomfortable? Would it be different if it were a man’s orgasm? Is this even art, and if so—doesn’t pornography need more credit? How does age play out in this? Am I simply shocked by the age of the couple before me? Would it be easier for me to process if it were a younger couple? Why can’t society openly accept ‘aging gracefully,’ and thus, fucking while you do so? What about sexuality? How would my reaction differ if I spied upon a lesbian couple interact with the orgasm machine? Would I be aroused if it were a male orgasm machine? What if I were alone with the orgasm machine, and a group of 15 year old boys?

It’s like the beauty industry. We (women especially), dump billions of dollars into this idea of beauty and youth. I buy the fancy eye cream, because I don’t want wrinkles, and want to look ‘young’ for as long as possible. This is what I’ve been accustomed to viewing as attractive- and hey, who doesn’t want to look good? In other words, we collectively PAY to keep this as secretive as possible. Throwing in the towel, (trashing the eye cream), and just ‘aging’ is absolutely not an option. With sex, while I may not pay with tangible dollars, I openly contribute to a system that enforces and reinforces this idea that sex is not a big deal. Sex does not control every waking moment of my life. Sex is just sex. Orgasms are just orgasms. We’re all just animals, after all. 
Bullshit.
Despite considering myself an occasionally outlandish, reaction-driven gal—there really is no number of beers that could convince me to comfortably and confidently approach a man at a bar for nothing other then sex. To say this has never crossed my mind would be a blatant lie. Even in recognizing that sex is all I’m interested in, and probably all he’s (anonymity, just for fun) interested in--- we still have to play the game, and go through the motions of buying each other a round, pretending to laugh at each other’s lame one-liners, acting as though our mind-numbing lives are fascinating. I realize how cynical this makes me sound… but how funny that the main thing we’re after is the exact thing that trips us up in the first place…
If sex is simply a chemical reaction of sorts, a sloppy fusion of nerve endings, fluids and colliding cells---why is it impossible to compartmentalize it as thus? If sex is the crucial element to our ‘humanness’, the foundation from which we (as ‘beings) pivot from—why can’t we all just openly address it? Why does it have to be a secret exhibit, in a securely isolated room, within a very, very rich man’s collection to pin point the pink elephant in the room?

From within this sandbox, I ponder onwards….

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

and then I loved Melbourne...

St. Kilda: A blustery beach day


MELBOURNE city center.
























Yes, this really happened. A day trip out to Grampians National Park: lots of Simian Mobile Disco disco disco disco, lots of hiking, and lots of... well... to be totally honest, a lot of picture taking--- although it was only during private reflection that I discovered a) I'm shit for 'nature' photography, and b) rock formations--- even when 'enhanced' with fancy camera settings-- are still. just. rocks. In other words, cliff-sides don't look any cooler in sepia tone, or with extended flash times... I now know this, and won't torture any of you with further attempts at 'artsiness.' 
I digress. Post disco dance party (while seated in a 12-person van, mind you)-- post bushwalking, and post lame photo opts: we saw kangaroos. And sweet Christ, this one had a little baby Roo. Insert wild squealing h  e  r  e.

My neighborhood...

Other Melbourne highlights include-- but in no way are limited to: biking this totally manageable, incredibly flat city 




Working a rad beer bar with a rad beer slingin' crew
Bar party--- en route to various vineyard/breweries though the Yarra Valley



Oh.
And some serious
summer-time-fun-time....




Thursday, October 14, 2010

and then i stopped blogging because i suck.

Haven't been writing, as the 'vacation phase' is over-- and the 'getting shit together phase' has been in full gear. In short? I love it here. Love it love it love it love it. This is exactly where I needed to be, and at exactly the right moment.
In the first week, I've managed to sort out: new banking account. new cell phone. new home. new job. and, while it's taking a bit more time *naturally then the rest of it--- new friends are in the making.

Today I went to the park with a new pal from New Zealand--- then house hunted with my favorite new German guy: Thomas. If things tomorrow morning work out, we'll be living together, with another gal from Sydney--- merely 5 minutes from the beach, and 10 minutes from the 'city center'--- where I now sling cocktails for Aussies.

Oh my god, i love it here. More to come... someday maybe?

Sunday, October 3, 2010

and then i was straight chillin'

Color me ready and waiting folks.

I'm officially watching the clock. Sitting here at (go on, judge) Starbucks-- where the coffee still sucks, but the internet is free... Tonight? Probably some celebratory beers, followed by some necessary packing... then tomorrow: a flight to Tokyo, then to Gold Coast, then finally to Melbourne.

In short, I'll be living at various airports for the next two days--- The good news: after innumerable years purchasing spontaneous flights to the other side of the globe- I've finally developed my

'How-to-not-feel-totally-disgusting-after-37+-hours-showerless-in-airplanes' survival pack.
Are you ready? The secrets I'm about to reveal may in fact blow your fucking mind.

* tooth brush and paste. total life saver.
* lotion--- skin gets soooo dry with all that circulated plane air
* an extra pair of clean underwear. incredible.
*2 or 3 half finished novels-- assuming you can't find a Vogue in english anywhere
* that just-dusted-off journal. you know, for any last minute fits of introspection.
*and finally-- for that long-awaited arrival at 'THE' destination? some mascara and lip gloss. duh.

who says I'm not the nest building nurturing type! go fuck yourself!

sweaty and wasted. and apparently with a knife?
Fun times with ipod lights and exposed flash settings....
Some last minute pics--- good times with good people. I'll save the 'Japan In Conclusion' blog for one of my many layovers tomorrow... I'll have a lot of time to 'process, filter and regurgitate.'

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

and then i spent my birthday in my suit...

Took off for Beppu.
Two hours southeast of Fukouka---- renown for its onsen. The entire town essentially sits on hot springs. I had hours and hours there, and really only made it to two out of the dozen onsen spread about.

I’d decided beforehand that it was due time to spend a birthday solo, and naked--- and now having done so, I recommend it to everyone. 

Oh, and if possible, have some birthday ramen. 

Understandably so, cameras aren’t allowed in public bathhouses, so I have no photographic evidence of this day--- only back muscles free of knots, and a mind free of stress.

 Ah, and after close inspection, I believe I located a wrinkle on my forehead.

 26 years old….
Not bad, ol’ gal, not bad at all.

Later that night, I returned to Fukuoka, where friends surprised me at the train station (birthday whiskey tucked under their jackets)—and took me out for diner.

We returned home afterwards, to rooftop drinks, more food--- and this:

A wonderful, homemade chocolate cake--- complete with an ‘E’ across the top. (Thank you Fumi!) 

Australia in ONE week folks. Stay tuned.



Tuesday, September 28, 2010

and then i nerded out in Nagasaki

Here’s a healthy dose of history for y’all.
Check it out: Nagasaki.

Opened by the Portuguese in 1571. Flourished as a busy trading port/center for Christian missionary activities. In 1641, after the adoption of a national ban on Christianity and the expulsion of the Portuguese, the Dutch trading post and Chinese settlement in Nagasaki became Japan’s only points of contact with the outside world. The monopoly lasted for more than 200 years and created in Nagasaki a unique blend of cultures, and a liberal atmosphere unheard of in other parts of the country.

Then, at 11:02 am on August 9th, 1945 (3 days after Hiroshima) the USA dropped yet another A-bomb. This time, killing over 75,000 of Nagasaki’s 240,000 population. Over 70% of the bomb’s victims were women, children, and senior citizens. Another 75,000 were injured and it is estimated that that number again have subsequent died as a result of the blast. Anyone out in the open within two km of the epicenter suffered severe burns from the heat of the explosion; even four km away exposed skin was burnt. Everything within a one km radius of the explosion was destroyed, and the resultant fires burnt out almost everything within a four km radius. A third of the city was wiped out.




Let me break it down some more:
Total population of Nagasaki: 240,000
Dead: 73,884
Injured: 74,909
Homeless: 120,820
Damaged houses within 4 km radius: 18,409
Totally destroyed houses within 4 km radius: 11,574 (1/3 of all houses in city)






Despite being ½ the size, Nagasaki’s Atomic Bomb Museum somehow sunk in deeper then Hiroshima’s museum. It felt more personal---- more horribly intimate. Hiroshima had larger collections, larger exhibits, and even more testimonies… but Nagasaki… maybe its exhibits were more powerful in their simplicity? Maybe less was somehow more? I’m not sure. But it was incredible.



Peace Statue (in Peace Park)--- completed in 1955, 10 years after the atomic bombing. It’s by far the ugliest thing I’ve ever seen. Regardless, the raised arm points to the threat of nuclear weapons, and the out-stretched arm symbolizes peace.










Fukusai-ji Temple: a former national treasure--- build by a Chinese Zen priest in 1628. 20 years later, the temple was dedicated to the goddess of Mercy, Kannon, in order to make the temple prosper. The A-bomb completely destroyed the original temple, along with its precious cultural inheritance—thus in 1979, it was rebuilt--- in the shape of a giant turtle, with an 18 meter-high figure of the goddess Kannon on its back. At 11:02 am daily—the exact time of the explosion, a bell tolls from the temple.


26 martyrs memorial:
26 Christians were crucified here in 1957, during Japan’s most brutal crackdown on Christianity. Of those remembered: 6 Spanish friars, and 20 Japanese—the youngest being boys aged 12 and 13.





Glover Garden!
After traveling to Nagasaki from Scotland, Thomas Blake Glover built a house on the hill in Minami-Yamate in 1863. At the time, Nagasaki was vibrant with the energy of people looking toward a new dawn for Japan. Here were the merchants from across the seas, pursuing dreams of fortune; the revolutionaries seeking an end to the Shogunate; and the youth of Japan eager to study the West. Today---- over a century later, the memories of Glover’s life here with his wife and children remain, untouched, along with the homes of the merchants who lived in Nagasaki. In short, you can explore a bunch of European style mansions from the city’s pioneering Meiji period. Factor in the fact that they’re all situated on a hillside overlooking the sea, and surrounded by incredible gardens/goldfish ponds—and it becomes a super cool way to waste the afternoon.